STYLING AIDS FOR PET GROOMERS- APPLICATIONS

Every hair stylist utilizes a selection of hair styling aids such as mousses, setting gels, sprays, and pastes. These products have become the fastest growth segment of the human hair industry. In my grooming practice at Transformation Pet Center, Tucson, Arizona, I like to use styling aids to give my doggie clients that out-the-door pizzaz.  Styling aids can add extra flair or glam to a grooming, or help to temporarily correct stubborn problems like wonky terrier eyebrows or limp, floppy topknots.  Here are some examples:

Scamp is a little yorkie mix that belongs to my mechanic.  We use a little setting gel to tousle the top of his head and give him what I call the "little dude" look.  I just use the gel on the dried and trimmed hair as a finishing touch.  For this tousled look, I like to use a firm hold gel, such as Tresemme Extra Firm Gel.  

Setting gel is also very helpful for Cairn Terrier heads.  This is "Buddy".  He would have a very flat and square shaped head without the gel.  For best results, use on damp hair and dry to give more shape to the whole head and face.  For a whole head gel, I would go with Chris Christensen Thick n' Thicker Volumizing Gel.  Good news!  CC now offers this product in an 8 0z tube as well as the (rather messy) jar.  Just spotted while preparing this post, that I can't wait to try out: TRESemme Styling Glaze -a fast drying, long-lasting formula that will not build-up or flake. Super hold gives precise control for sculpting, roller sets, wet sets and blow drying.  

Bichon heads thrive on a serving of mousse.  It adds volume and body and helps the stylist achieve a full, round head.  Not all Bichon heads need this kind of help, but when the head is a bit straight or soft, the mousse can really help achieve a great look.  Mousse is also great for terrier furnishings, especially legs where the coat won't stand out to achieve a good "column" look.

Buddy is a toy poodle I've been grooming for years.  His coat is soft and fine and hard to scissor.  I use Chris Christensen "Bottoms Up" to give the coat more structure.  On the topknot, I use a flexible spray, such as Chris Christensen "Thick n' Thicker."  Note that there is a range of setting sprays, from flexible-hold or working sprays, that allow for combing and working the coat, to very firm finishing sprays that lock a style in place.

 Schnauzer eyebrows always get a dab of gel at my table.  This gives them terrific definition.  After applying a little to the eyebrows, I rub the remainder between my palms and apply in downwards strokes to the beard, helping to achieve that "brick head" look we like.  For this work, I often choose Chris Christensen styling gel, a product made for canines that has no added fragrance.  The biggest, and perhaps only, difference between styling products sold for people and those sold for dogs is the amount of fragrance.

Westie heads actually do well with BOTH gel and mousse.  Mix together in your hands and apply through the whole head.  This will help you get a more full, round shape to the head.  Tuffy would be a total "flat head" without his styling products! This is another application where I am going to try out the TRESemme Styling Glaze.  I'll let you know how it works for me.  My ex-boss, Chris Christensen refers to styling products as "liquid tools", and I am always eager to add to my tool box.

A note about using chalk on westies.  I did that for a short period.  It was messy, and you can't scissor chalked hair without damaging your shears.  With mousse/gel, you can easily clean and restore your shears with an alcohol wipe.  Also, I talked with a westie breeder who told me she stopped using chalk for the show ring after paying a $1700 vet bill for eye damage due to chalk in the eyes.  That stopped me cold in my tracks!



 Zelda has a natural mohawk.  We use colored chalk and set it with a fairly stiff spray to give her a traffic stopping look.  Isle of Dogs "Isle Style" is a favorite of mine.  It's also good for westie and cairn heads as an alternative to gel and/or mousse.

Do you have a favorite use of styling products on the pets you groom?  Let's hear your suggestions.  

Click here to download the PDF technical article on Styling Aids for the Canine Coat.

PET SHAMPOO INGREDIENT LISTS PART II

Ingredient Lists

Part II List Informativeness Score

            To make it easier to consider the quality of information contained in pet product ingredient lists, we have devised a grading protocol that gives each list a measure of how it compares to the requirements of a human cosmetic ingredient list.  We could call this a measure of the informativeness of a given list.  For short, we can call it the Label/List Score.

Here’s how we determine “Informativeness Score” for an ingredient list.

Start with 100 Points and subtract –

-20 points if list seems incomplete (doesn't list water, preservatives, surfactants).

-15 points for hiding ingredients under a general description, such as “shampoo base.”

-10 Points if ingredients appear to not be in order of volume. (It takes some practice to identify this practice).


-10 Points for EACH ingredient that is described, not identified (other than fragrance). For ex:  "preservative", "pH adjuster".


-5 Points for EACH ingredient that is identified by trade name instead of chemical name. For ex: "Cocamide D" instead of "Cocamide DEA", or "EGMS" instead of "Ethylene Glycol Monostearate (EGMS)."

for each ingredient using common or commercial name not using INCI names.

-5 points for misplaced commas or spelling errors. (because it can be misleading)

-5 Points for misleading information, such as "Essential Apple Oil Fragrance Oil" (There is no such thing as an Essential Fragrance Oil, fragrances are either synthetic fragrance oils or natural essential oils. Other than citrus fruits, fruits cannot be distilled to obtain essential oils. )


Subtract Deductions from 100. Total remaining points is the LABEL/LIST SCORE.

APPLICATIONS:

#1: Pet Silk Bright White (from label on bottle):

Ingredients: Deionized Water, Tea Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Mint Extract, Fennel Extract, Mistletoe Extract, Yarrow Extract, Silk Proteins, Keratin, Amino Acids, Betaine, Cocamide MEA, Chamomile Extract, Rosemary, Comfrey, Vitamin A, Vitamin B, Vitamin E, Vitamin D, and Fragrance

-20 Points for incomplete list. No preservative listed, no colorant listed (it is a dark blue shampoo product.

-5 for trade name, “Betaine”.  Is this Cocamidopropyl Betaine? There are several betaines used in cosmetics.

-5 X 4 for common names of Vitamins.

-5 for misplaced punctuation, Keratin, Amino Acids should probably be Keratin Amino Acids., or proper INCI name: Hyrolyzed Keratin.  

Total Deductions: 50.  Ingredient List Score = 50 

#2:  EZ Groom Crystal White (from MSDS provided by Company}:

Ingredients: DI water, Sodium Cocamphopropionate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Enzywhite-SRW Complex, Lauramide DEA, Cocoamidopropylamine Oxide, Cocoamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Propylene Glycol,

Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, Polysorbate 80, Cetyl Acetate, Acetylated Lanolin, FD&C Colors,Fragrance.

No Deductions. Ingredient List Score = 100

This ingredient list is complete, uses INCI names for all named ingredients.  It has one unidentified ingredient, the proprietary Enzywhite-SRW Complex.  I view this as a truly qualifying “trade secret” ingredient, since it is unique to this manufacturer and it is the ingredient that sets this formula apart from the competition.  In such a case, we would not deduct points.  

#3:Furminator Deshedding Solution (from PetEdge website):

 Ingredients; Kava Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Vitamin A, Omega 3 Fatty Acids, Omega 6 Fatty Acids, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Vitamin E, Vitamin B5, Aloe Vera and Chamomile Extract.

Deductions:

-20 for incomplete list.  Where is water, preservative? There needs to be an emulsifier, and/or a conditioner base. 

-15 for hiding ingredients (water).

-25. 5 ingredients use common names:  Vitamin A, Omega 3 Fatty Acids, Omega 6 Fatty acids, Vitamin E and Vitamin B5.

Total Deductions: 60 Points, Ingredient List Score = 40. 

#4  Nootie Sweet Pea & Vanilla Shampoo (from label):

Contains: Purified water, decyl glucoside, coco betaine, glycerin, polyquat 7 (conditioner), jojoba oil, infused with essence of sweet pea & vanilla, germall plus.

-15 for hiding ingredients. Preservatives listed as trade name “germall plus”; INCI name - Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.

3 ingredients are listed by trade names: coco betaine = cocomidopropyl betaine, polyquat 7 = polyquaternium 7, germall plus. -15

-5 for misleading information.  There is no natural ‘sweet pea & vanilla’ essence. This is a synthetic fragrance. 

Total deductions: 35 Ingredient List Score = 65.

#5 Davis Oatmeal Shampoo from web–

Ingredients: Collodial Oat Flour, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Lauramide D, Aloe Vera Whole Leaf, Purified Water, pH Adjuster, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, PEG Distearate, Thickening Agent, EGMS Fatty Acid Esters, Cosmetic Grade Preservatives, Propylene Glycol, Essential Apple Oil Fragrance

-10 List seems out of order

-30 Ingredient description avoiding identification “pH Adjuster” “Thickening Agent”, Cosmetic Grade Preservatives” .

-10 Use of Trade Names rather than ingredient names: Lauramide D, EGMS.

-5 Misleading/misinformation – Essential Apple Fragrance Oil. 

-5 for misspelling and sloppiness.Colloidal Oatmeal.

Deductions: 60. Ingredient List Score = 40.

Note: By human product labeling regulations, this list would also not be allowed to say “Whole Leaf” aloe vera, “purified” water, or “cosmetic grade” preservatives. 

#6 Tropiclean Oxy-Med Shampoo from product label: Contains: Oatmeal, Alpha Hydroxys, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, and Vitamin B-5 in a mild coconut shampoo base.

This is a list that is declaring only the additives, and not accurately identifying those.

-20 incomplete list

-15 hiding ingredients

-10 not in order of volume

-10 ingredient description, Alpha Hydroxys

-10 common names, Oatmeal, and Vit.B-5

Deductions: 65. Ingredient List Score = 35

#7 Top Paw Oatmeal Baking Soda Shampoo.  (Petsmart from website):

ingredients: Purified water, anionic, non ionic, and amphoteric surfactants, acrylates cocopolymar, glycol distearate, sodium bicarbonate, glycerin, collodial oatmeal, hydrolized silk protein, aloe vera, fragrance, dmdm-hydantoin, tetrasodium edta.

-30 for generic description of anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants. This could be at least 3, and possibly 5 or 6 ingredients. 

-15 for hiding ingredients above. 

-5 for misspellings and sloppiness. Acrylates cocopolymar is Acrylates copolymer; Collodial oatmeal is Colloidal Oatmeal, and hydrolized silk protein should be Hydrolyzed Silk Protein. 

Deductions: 50. Ingredient List Score = 50.

PS. Acrylates copolymer is a film former/holding agent generally found in hair spray and styling products.  It is never found in a shampoo. It is hard to believe it is in there. 

#8 ShowSeason Texture Shampoo (from Technical Sheet supplied by mfr.):

Ingredients: Water, Alpha Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,

Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Oleamido MEA Sulfosuccinate,

Cocamide MEA, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, DMDM Hydantoin, Fragrance.

No Deductions. Ingredient List Score = 100.

#9 Theraneem Organix Pet Shampoo. (From website).

Ingredients: Aqueous Extracts of Azadirachta Indica (Neem) Leaf*, Chamomilla Recutita (Chamomile), Arnica Cordifolia (Arnica) Flowers, Pinus nigra (Pine) bark, Ocimum Basillicum (Basil) and Prunus serotina (Cherry) bark, Olefin Sulfonate, Polysorbate 20, Alkyl Polyglucoside, Lauramide DEA, Peg-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Azadirachta Indica (Neem) Oil*, Glycerine, Panthenol, Sodium Chloride (Sea salt), Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate (from glycine), Fragrance (from Natural Ingredients), Citric Acid.* Certified Organic

Kudos to this “natural” pet shampoo for full disclosure of their ingredients and using the INCI names for all, even for the botanicals.  Deduct 5 points for Misleading information, however, as the “Aqueous Extracts” of herbal ingredients suggest that there are more herbal ingredients than surfactants or water and that is not exactly true.

Ingredient List Score = 95. 

#10 Earthbath Shampoo (from website):

Ingredients: Purified water, renewable coconut-based cleansers, gentle-conditioning agent, aloe vera, hydrolized wheat protein, glycerine, mango essence, olive oil squalene (natural preservative).

-30 for at least 3 ingredients that are described rather than identified, coconut-based cleansers, conditioning agent.

-5 for misleading information, “renewable coconut-based cleansers” can be the same SLS or SLES as found in other pet shampoos, “gentle conditioning agent” can be Cocamidopropyl Betaine found in many if not most commercial shampoos

-5 for misspelling etc. glycerine – Glycerin; hydrosized wheat protein – hydrolyzed. 

Total deductions: -40. Ingredient List Score = 60

#11 Earthdog Shampoo (from website)

Ingredients: Liquid Castille Soap (Saponified Oils of Coconut & Olive, Aloe Vera Gel, Rosemary Oil Extract), Distilled Water, Glycerin, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Extract of: Matricaria recutita (Chamomile) Flower, Calendula officinalis (Calendula) Flowers, Urtica dioica (Stinging Nettles) Leaf, Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) Buds, Plantago major (Plantain) Leaf, Stellaria media (Chickweed); Thuja orientalis (Cedarwood) Oil, Pogostemon cablini (Patchouli) Oil, Eucalyptus globulus (Eucalyptus) Oil, Pimenta racemosa (Bay) Oil, Eugenia caryophyllata (Clovebud) Oil, Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, & Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) Oil Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Xanthan Gum."

List Score:

-20 Seems incomplete.  No emulsifiers to mix oil in water, no preservatives.

-10 not in order of volume.  Water should be first.

-5 for missing comma – before Tocopherol. 

Total Deductions 35: Ingredient List Score = 65

#12 Isle of Dogs Vanilla Jasmine Coating Shampoo (from Petco website):

Ingredients: Water (aqua), sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco glucoside, glyceryl oleate, peg-3 distearate, aloe barbadensis leaf extract, glycerin, dl-panthenol, propylene glycol, DMDM hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, polysorbate 20, sodium chloride, citric acid, caramel, fragrance.

No Deductions: List Score = 100

#13Best Shot UltraMAX Shampoo (from Pet Edge Website)

Ingredients: Aqua, Proprietary Blend of Coat and Skin Cleansers including Concentrated Coconut, Surfactants and Advanced Conditioning Agents, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Aloe Vera Extract, Rosemary Extract, Glycerol Stearate, Natural Essence, Citric Acid for PH balancing, and Preservative.

-15 for hiding ingredients under a general description (very well-crafted)

-40 for described, not identified Coconut Surfactants and Conditioning Agents, Natural Essence (fragrance), Preservative.

-5 for misplaced comma Coconut, Surfactants

Total Deductions: 60 Ingredient List Score = 40

Okay, it's your turn. Try out the scoring system on a label or list of your product.  Of course this requires that you HAVE an ingredient list to start with.  This is not an easy exercise, as it requires some familiarity with ingredient names and what should show up on a list.  If you have lists that you would like me to score, post them in the comments below and I will try to get to it as time allows.  For me, time can be a problem, but this is the kind of thing I love to do.  

PET SHAMPOO INGREDIENT LISTS PART 1

PET SHAMPOO INGREDIENT LISTS

PART I – THE CURRENT SITUATION

   As more pet groomers have been requesting ingredient information, some companies have been responding and will provide ingredient lists.  Others, especially companies that retail to the public, want their product labels to resemble human products and include ingredient information on the label.  Not all these ingredient declarations are equal, however, and not all are complete and informative. There are some of manufacturers that stubbornly refuse to share ingredient information, and claim “trade secrecy.” 

Why are pet shampoo manufacturers so resistant to disclosing ingredient information? 

•            Because they don’t HAVE to disclose. There is no legal mandate requiring manufacturers to disclose ingredients. Some cosmetic manufacturers (human or animal) would much rather market by hype and claims than by actual ingredients.
•       Because pet shampoo formulas are more similar than different. Pet shampoo companies make a big fuss over the importance of “trade secrecy” to their ingredient lineups, as if they contain unique and special ingredients.  The truth is pet shampoos are more similar than different from company to company. While the designer additives may differ, the working part of the shampoo, the shampoo base, is often similar. This is not necessarily a Bad Thing.  Simple and similar ingredient line-ups can be very effective in cleaning dirty dogs. The different additives give the products their personality and image. 
•       Because they don’t want pet groomers to become “ingredient police.”  This is a reason with which I empathize.  There is way too much Internet propaganda and fear mongering designed to frighten people away from traditional ingredients.  Unsophisticated and unaware consumers buy into negative propaganda about “dangerous ingredients” and want to cherry-pick ingredients.  An example of a maligned ingredient is Propylene Glycol.  This moisturizing ingredient has been used effectively for decades, has been extensively studied and determined as safe, but manufacturers of alternative, more “natural” products, want to scare us away from by calling it “anti-freeze”, and worse.  Pet shampoo manufacturers do not want to have to defend every ingredient choice. 
•        Because they want to be able to change or modify formulas without costly label printing, and without consumers knowing that they have changed the formula(s). This is understandable, although not defendable.  Consumers should know of changes in ingredient lineups, regardless of the cost of label printing.

What can we expect to find on a pet shampoo ingredient list?

     Not only is there no legal mandate that requires pet shampoo manufacturers to disclose ingredients, there is no uniform format for listing ingredients when they are declared. One manufacturer’s ingredient list may use formal chemical names for all or most items, and another may use common names or chemical supplier’s jargon.  While some companies are forthright and use the rules established for human cosmetics, others dance around the issue of disclosure, by using descriptive terms, hiding ingredients under the mantle of “shampoo base”, or simply listing only the additives or “selling point” ingredients. 

What is required on a list for human cosmetics?

It is helpful to look at the requirements for human cosmetics, as it gives us a model by which we can gauge the informational value of the pet product lists we obtain.  Also, a look at human cosmetics labeling gives insight into the assumptions and expectations we have when we look at a list of declared ingredients for a pet product. 

Authority over cosmetics labeling was assigned to the FDA by the Federal Food Drug & Cosmetic Act of 1938.  The act has been amended to add regulations over the years.  The current cosmetic ingredient labeling regulations were established in 1977. They require ingredients to be fully declared, in descending order of predominance, by the nomenclature established in reference sources of ingredient names.  The primary reference used today is the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. This reference lists ingredients by the INCI names, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. ¹

1  1.  Fully Disclosed – Each and every ingredient must be identified.  The notable exception is trade secret ingredients.  Companies must submit an application to have trade secret status, and then must list “other ingredients” at the end of the ingredient list.  Another way to identify these proprietary ingredients is to use an assumed company name that does not allow its identification through any of the listed sources.  In pet products, an example of this type of listing is EZ Groom Crystal White Shampoo that lists, “Enzywhite-SRW Complex”. 

A trade secret is defined by the Freedom of Information Act as “any formula, pattern, device or compilation of information used in one’s business and which gives him an opportunity to obtain an advantage over competitors who do not know or use it.”  Under this definition, EZ Groom’s enzymatic complex would likely pass as proprietary, but common surfactants found in shampoo bases would not.
Currently, fragrance ingredients are the only ingredients in labeling of human products that can be identified simply by function, “fragrance” or “parfum.  In pet product labeling, it is common to find ingredients identified by description of their function rather than chemical names.  I call this the “descriptive dodge.”  An example would be, “coconut cleansing agent”.

2   2.    Descending order of predominance – This rule applies to all ingredients present in concentrations of more than 1% in the finished product.  Ingredients present in 1% or less amounts may be listed in any order after those at higher concentrations. Also, color additives may be listed in any order after the listing of all other ingredients.  Under this rule, most shampoo ingredient lists would begin with “water” and end with one or two color additives, or identification of the preservatives. 

Many pet shampoo ingredient lists break this rule, mixing up the order so that the selling point ingredients appear at the top of the list.  For example, an Oatmeal Shampoo might list Oatmeal as the first ingredient.  Really?  If there is more oatmeal in the bottle than water, it would not pour.  If there is more Aloe Vera juice than cleansing surfactants would the shampoo clean? 

      3.   INCI names.  Few people other than chemists really like the technical INCI names for cosmetic ingredients.  However, this nomenclature serves a very important purpose: use of INCI names reduces inconsistencies and confusion in how ingredients are identified.  When an ingredient is identified under a scientific name  (Lauramide Diethanolamide) on one list, a trade name on another (Lauramide D), and by function on a third list (foam stabilizer), the consumer has no way of knowing that these are all the same item.  INCI names level the playing field. On human products, botanical ingredients are required to be listed by their latin names, although common names can be used in parenthesis.  Lavender essential oil would be listed only as Lavendula officinalis (Lavender) oil.  This is rarely found on pet products. 

     4. No qualifying or descriptive information – On human cosmetics ingredient lists, they are not supposed to put modifying or qualifying information that makes other brands look bad in comparison, such as, organic, purified, or from coconut.  The use of modifiers is common in pet product ingredient information.  Gentle, mild, earth-friendly, are all used for marketing appeal. 

Since no requirements exist for the labeling on pet products, there is no reason not to use the human cosmetics labeling requirements.  Why should we hold pet products to a lesser standard?  We shouldn’t of course. Ingredient lists are important not only in comparing one product to another, but also in assessing how well the product ingredients measure up to the product marketing claims.  In Part 2 of this series, we will look at some pet product ingredient lists and assess them against the requirements for human labeling.  Stay tuned.  “Technical” can be fun!

USING STYLING AID FOR PET AND SHOW

CLICK HERE to download complete PDF technical article on styling products for pet grooming.  Post comments below.

Thanks for your interest in my work.

Handouts DGAWA Webinar

Click HERE to go to the Specialty Shampoo Chart, a handout created for the Dog Groomers Association of Western Australia (DGAWA) September 2014.

Click HERE to download the Chart on Types of Conditioners & Usage.

Thank you for attending, and for your interest in my work.